Do you open your jewelry box and see a tangled mess? Have you noticed damage to jewelry items from either the way you use them, or the way your store them? People usually give far more thought to their jewelry when they purchase it, than they do about the piece after it comes home. Fine jewelry typically represents a significant investment, and requires certain measures to maintain its value. Here are some suggestions for the care of fine jewelry that will help you preserve your investment for years to come.
A Good Rule of Thumb
Think about your “getting dressed” routine--whether getting ready for work, or the steps you normally take prior to going out at night. Do you put on your jewelry first? Last? Somewhere in the middle?
Most fine jewelry doesn’t fare well vs. hair products—particularly hair spray. The phrase “last on, first off” refers to putting your jewelry on as the last step in your routine before walking out the door, and taking it off as the first thing you do when you arrive home. This is a good way to preserve your jewelry without much effort.
Another point--take off your jewelry before showers and especially before going into a pool or hot tub. The chemicals used to treat the water will--particularly over repeated exposure--harm gold, causing pitting and loss of shine.
Occasionally inspect your jewelry, or better still--have it inspected by a reputable jeweler. This is particularly important for those pieces that get the most use. Wedding rings with stones take abuse on a regular basis and prongs can be bent by catching on clothes and other items. Check to see if the stones move in their settings, or if prongs look like their tips have worn off. If you tap gently on the stone with a toothpick and it moves, that stone is loose. The shank of the ring (the part that goes around your finger) can also wear down over time. If the metal becomes too thin, it may break. Yearly inspection by a jeweler is a good investment, and many offer this service free for their customers, along with cleaning.
Cleaning
Does the metal on your jewelry look dull and your stones look lifeless? Chances are, dirt and oil have accumulated, dulling the look of the piece. Stones in particular are vulnerable to buildup from both the top and underneath the setting, where it is difficult to clean.
Before you set about cleaning your jewelry, take a moment to inspect it. Are the stones loose? Are there parts that are about to break--paying particular attention to the prongs on stones? If the piece needs repair, or you aren’t entirely sure if it does, consult a jeweler before cleaning. It sounds strange, but there are cases where the only thing holding a stone in the setting is the accumulated dirt that is between the stone and a faulty prong. You don’t want to find out the hard way that your diamond is loose.
One of the best ways to clean most fine jewelry is using mild soapy water and a soft toothbrush. Clean your jewelry over a bowl of water, not over the sink. This way, if you do have a stone escape the setting, it won’t go down a drain. Inspect the piece very closely after cleaning for missing stones. You want to verify this before emptying the water out of the bowl or putting that drying cloth in the wash.
Care should be taken when using sonic cleaners, because they can cause damage to soft stones such as emeralds, opals and pearls. Sonic cleaners are safest when used for metal-only pieces, such as chains, but can be used for harder stones such as sapphires and diamonds after careful inspection of the settings.
If you find that you cannot reach all the areas that need to be cleaned using a toothbrush, you should probably take the piece to a jeweler for professional cleaning.
Storage
Are your necklaces all in a tangled knot? You need a better method for storing your jewelry. Tangles can lead to kinks, which in some pieces can cause permanent damage. Stones rubbing or knocking against each other can cause scratches and wear on the stones themselves. Two diamonds (such as a pair of earrings) rubbing against each other can cause abrasions to facet junctions, and even chips. Jewelry armoires are good because they typically provide hooks for chains and pendants to hang, reducing the chance they will tangle. If you use a jewelry box that doesn’t provide separation, you can use a soft cloth (such as a handkerchief) to separate items into layers.
Some Special Cases
Pearls
Pearls should be stored separately whenever possible. They are especially fragile and so a separate container will keep them from knocking against other items in the jewelry box. Hairspray is especially damaging to the delicate nacre that produces the lovely sheen on pearls, so be certain to take extra care not to use it while wearing your strand.
Restringing every three years for strands that are worn regularly is recommended to help reduce the likelihood of the strand breaking. Pearls should be knotted between and silk thread should be used for stringing.
Emeralds
Emerald is a stone that should never go into a cleaner. The stone is too porous and the sonic waves may actually cause damage. Additionally, a high percentage of the emeralds in circulation have been treated in some manner. For instance, they are frequently soaked in a solution to improve clarity. The sonic cleaner can cause the treatment to be reversed, and the result is a stone that looks worse when you remove it from cleaning.
Opals
Opals should be protected from scratches and abrasions. They are a soft stone and can easily be damaged from life in the jewelry box. Separate areas for the opals, or ideally separate protected containers for them will help prolong their life.
Considering the intrinsic value of jewelry, using some care in the way you treat your pieces will make a big difference in their longevity. These basic guidelines should help you to keep your jewelry looking as good as the day you brought it home.
